Sailing to Alaska on the Ruby Princess: A Journey of Glaciers, Gold, and Northern Lights
Princess Cruise Line’s Ruby Princess docked in Alaska.
There’s something about cruising to Alaska that feels different from any other voyage. Maybe it's the thrill of sailing through glassy waters past towering glaciers, the crisp, pine-scented air, or the excitement of spotting wildlife from your balcony. Our journey aboard the Ruby Princess from Vancouver to Alaska was nothing short of magical — a perfect blend of natural wonder, cozy shipboard moments, and once-in-a-lifetime experiences.
Setting Sail from Vancouver
We flew from Los Angeles to Vancouver arriving the day before our cruise. Ships do not wait for lost luggage or delayed flights, so this rule is unbreakable when I am embarking on a cruise vacation. We stayed one night at the Pinnacle Harbourview Hotel and had a great stay. Rooms were large and clean, our view was magnificent, and the location was walking distance to restaurants - like Horin where I tried my first Ramen and left questioning my life choices up to that point - shopping, and the Canada Place Cruise Terminal! No additional Uber rides for us! Honestly, even with two suitcases each, we were able to easily manage the downhill walk to meet our ship.
Vancouver is the perfect jumping-off point for an Alaskan adventure. After a smooth embarkation process at Canada Place, we were welcomed aboard the Ruby Princess, our floating home for the next week. A quick tour revealed everything we could possibly want: cozy lounges, sweeping ocean views, and dining options that had us planning our meals before we even unpacked.
Accessibility Tip:
Although Vancouver is a walkable city, it is very hilly. For those using mobility devices, this might prove challenging. Arranging other transportation might be a better choice.
Dining Highlights: Crown Grill, Salty Dog Gastropub, and the Main Dining Room
Let's talk food — because if you're anything like me, half the adventure is discovering the flavors along the way.
Our first night’s dinner at the Crown Grill was an experience in itself. This specialty steakhouse has a $55 ($27.50 for children) cover charge (included in the Premier Package) and is known for its impeccable cuts of beef and fresh seafood. I couldn't resist opting-in for all four courses. I started with the Mediterranean-Style Spiny Lobster Cake with tarragon foam, olives, and grilled asparagus. Next, the Black and Blue Onion Soup - a Crown Grill exclusive and must try for French Onion Soup lovers! I went with the tried and true for my main course: filet mignon, perfectly seasoned and seared. The sides are served family style, and my favorites were the sauteed mushrooms and asparagus. For dessert, I chose the Apple and Rhubarb Cobbler with blueberry drizzle and vanilla ice cream. Everything was indulgent, and the service made us feel like royalty.
We also took advantage of The Crab Shack, a “Pop-Up” style eatery that is housed in the Crown Grill on one night of select cruises - keep your eye out for notices! There is an add-on cost (currently $55 for adults, $27.50 for children) for dining at the Crab Shack and it is not included in either the Premier or Plus packages. If you are a seafood lover, the price is well worth it!
Another night, we made our way to the Salty Dog Gastropub which has an $18 cover charge (included in Princess Premier - unlimited, and Plus - two per sailing, Packages) If you're looking for a casual, hearty meal with a twist, this is your spot. I I enjoyed a Negroni while we waited for our table; I highly recommend! I had the "SDG Burger," a stacked masterpiece that somehow managed to compose rib eye, pork belly, and fried jalapeños without feeling over the top. Add in a pint of local craft beer and you have the perfect low-key evening.
Of course, we also spent plenty of time in the Main Dining Room. Each night brought a new menu of multi-course delights. From seafood pastas to slow-cooked lamb shanks, and Prime Rib, the offerings were varied and delicious. And don't even get me started on the desserts — I may have ordered the warm chocolate melting cake more than once!
Juneau: Mendenhall Glacier and Gold Peak Gondola
Before we jump into Juneau, I want to comment on the weather and my attire. I rarely travel anywhere cold - my idea of vacation is somewhere I can feel the sand beneath my feet and see the water I will jump into when it gets too hot. But, my sister kept pestering me to, “Come with us to Alaska! You’ll love it! It’s so beautiful!” And, as much as I hate to admit it, she was right on all accounts. So, I packed up my cold-weather clothes, then, seeing that I didn’t have many, bought more - I live in Southern California, we barely have seasons - purchased beanies, thick socks… you get the idea. When we walked off the ship and into the warm August sun in Juneau, we learned that they were experiencing a “heat spell.” Now, in the areas of Alaska that we visited, that meant temperatures hovered around 70°. It was lovely! Beautiful! And in my newly purchased fleece, it was HOT. So, on our way to our Juneau excursion, I stopped into a shop and stocked up on tee-shirts. I am sharing this because I neglected to take my own often-offered advice which is to stay on top weather patterns in destinations in the days leading up to your trip.
Now, back to our regularly scheduled program…
Our first major port was Juneau, and it set the bar high. We headed straight for the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center - after shopping for tee shirts - an incredible resource for understanding the history and power of this massive river of ice. From the visitor center, we had a fantastic view of the glacier itself, and saw the trails leading closer for those feeling adventurous.
Later, we took the Gold Peak Gondola up Mount Roberts. The ride itself was stunning, but the real treat was the locally caught halibut fish and chips at the top. On the table were a variety of seaweed-based Barnacle Bullwhip Kelp Hot Sauces. The sauces were unlike anything I've tasted before — a savory, slightly briny kick that complemented the crispy fish beautifully. We brought some home to enjoy later, too!
We enjoyed the view from our balcony as we left Juneau, the lights reflecting off the water were lovely.
Skagway: White Pass Railroad Adventure
Next up was Skagway, a town that feels frozen in time from the Klondike Gold Rush. We boarded the famous White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad, a narrow-gauge train that winds its way up steep grades, across trestle bridges, and through dramatic mountain scenery. Each car of the train is equipped with a very clean restroom with sink, and we were able to stand in the area outside the door of our train car to get a better view. I stood outside for the entire trip. We all agreed that we would take this train ride again and again - it was just that amazing.
The journey itself is nothing short of breathtaking. Waterfalls tumble down cliffs, and snow-capped peaks loom in the distance. We even crossed briefly into Canada (no passport needed for the trip, though it's good to bring one just in case). The narration shared tales of the hardy souls who braved this route in search of gold — making it easy to imagine the dreams and hardships of those early pioneers.
After leaving the train, we walked around Skagway and decided to grab lunch at the Skagway Brewing Company. I ordered the grilled local Sockeye Salmon sandwich served on ciabatta with with lettuce, tomato, cucumber, red onion, and horseradish dill sauce. It was moist, flaky, and perfectly seasoned, and pairing it with the beer-battered onion rings was a stroke of genius, if I do say so myself. I tried the Spruce-Tip Blonde (yes, Spruce as in, the tree!). Crisp with a deeply citrus, slightly resin flavor - will definitely order again!
As we sailed from Skagway, the colors of the sea and sky caused me to take pause. What a beautiful world we live in.
Accessibility Note:
The White Pass Railroad accommodates wheelchairs and ECVs. Be sure to book early as they are only able to accommodate a small number of mobility devices each trip. Be sure to share that you have a mobility device when booking, and in the case of ECVs, know the make and model of your device.
Glacier Bay: Nature's Grand Cathedral
We prepared for our journey through Glacier Bay national Park by pre-ordering breakfast before the cruise even began! In addition to booking excursions, you can use the Princess app to order all sorts of extras for your trip. We ordered the Balcony Breakfast which includes a chilled half bottle of sparkling wine, smoked salmon with dill cream cheese on lemon brioche, fresh fruits and berries with Chantilly cream, and Quiche Lorraine. If you or your family prefer more traditional scrambled eggs and bacon, a quick trip to the buffet for some take-away to supplement is an easy option, and who knows, you may find a cheese-stuffed tomato that looks too good to leave behind!
We spent a full day, about 8-9 hours, in Glacier Bay National Park, including a stop at a tidewater glacier. Although ships do not dock, you will cruise by spectacular scenery, including one hour spent at the face of Margerie Glacier where the ship turned 360° repeatedly for about an hour which gave everyone the opportunity to see the the scenery from all angles.
National Park Service Park Rangers board the ship early on to provide a narrative about important aspects of the visit, give special presentations about the park, present Junior Ranger activities, and staff an information desk where we were able to ask questions, purchase Glacier Bay National Park souvenirs, and even get our National Parks Passports stamped!
The ranger’s talk was broadcast live on the open decks and simulcast on our stateroom TV — a genius move if you’ve booked a balcony stateroom (highly recommended for an Alaskan cruise!). Sitting on the balcony, sipping mimosas, and watching towering glaciers calve into the sea from our private balcony while learning about the landscape and wildlife was pure magic.
Pro-Tip:
Pay attention to the notifications around the deck and in your Princess App. to learn where the National Park Service Park Rangers will be setting up for their pre-visit talks and store space. Seats fill up quickly, and lines can get long
Ketchikan: Lumberjack Show Fun
Our final port was Ketchikan, where we couldn't resist the famous Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show. Cheesy? Maybe a little. But it’s also an absolute blast! Professional lumberjacks (and lumberjills) compete in axe throwing, log rolling, speed climbing, and some fancy chainsaw maneuvers. The energy was infectious, and the audience was pulled into the fun from start to finish. Of course we signed up for the add-on Axe-Throwing experience where were first taught about axe safety and then learned how to throw for accuracy. It was great fun! There was a competition among the participants and I came in second!
After the show, we wandered historic Creek Street , a former Red Light District, now a charming boardwalk lined with shops and colorful houses built on stilts over the water. It's a great place to pick up some unique souvenirs or just enjoy a leisurely stroll.
Pro Tip:
If you choose to go to the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show and would like a snack or libation to enjoy while very fit men and women hurl axes and chainsaws, arrive and make your purchases early. The line can get long.
Accessibility Tip:
The Great American Lumberjack Show is a 5-20 minute walk from your cruise ship depending on how far down the dock your ship has moored. The route is paved and generally accessible for wheelchairs and scooters. Alternatively, excursions booked through the cruise line include accessible transportation, and the Ward Cove Cruise Terminal offers a free accessible downtown shuttle as well.
Chasing the Northern Lights
And then there were the Northern Lights…
One of the great things about Princess Cruises is that the Captain will come over the ship's speakers if the Northern Lights are visible. We were alerted by a text from my sister. Interestingly, at least to me, was that she hadn’t seen them with her eyes alone. My nephew, somehow, knew to look for the lights with his phone. I was initially full of doubt, and I was in my jammies, but after being told to, “go outside and try,” I did - I am seeing a pattern here; am I difficult? I think I may be difficult. Anyway, what I saw was otherworldly. What I learned was that in low light, human eyes prioritize detecting motion and shapes, which can make it difficult to perceive the subtle movement and colors of the aurora. Additionally, the cones of the human eye, which are responsible for color vision, are also much less effective in darker surroundings.
We turned off all of the lights in our cabin and raced outside onto the balcony. Green, purple, yellow, and pink waves shimmered, ethereal and breathtaking.
Pro Tip: If you here murmurings among the crew that it might be a good night for Northern Lights, don’t wait for an announcement. Open your phone’s camera, hold your phone up to the night sky, and take a peek.
Final Thoughts
Cruising to Alaska on the Ruby Princess was the perfect combination of sophistication, natural beauty, educational opportunities, and fun. From the luxurious meals to the jaw-dropping natural beauty, from the history-rich excursions to the surprises like the Northern Lights, every day offered something special.
If you're considering this journey, I can't recommend it enough. And if you can, splurge on a balcony cabin — having a front-row seat to Alaska's wild beauty, from breaching whales to calving glaciers, is worth every penny.
Whether it’s your first time to the Last Frontier or a return trip to a beloved destination, sailing to Alaska is an experience that stays with you — long after the ship has returned to port.
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